Purchase

If you are interested in getting one of our dogs, you should fill out our buyer questionnaire and review our sample buyer contract. Please note that these are sample contracts and yours may be slightly different. We ask for 2 references as well as your veterinarian information. WE DO CHECK ALL THREE REFERENCES. You must sign a release so we can talk to your veterinarian about current and past animals. If you do not sign this release with your veterinarian, and they cannot talk to us, your questionnaire will be voided. It is highly suggested that you inform your references that we will be contacting them. 

You may mail or scan and email your questionnaire back to us. We will review your questionnaire, and match you with dogs and puppies that we have available. If we have none, we will put you on our waiting list, and notify you when a dog is available.

Our waiting list has 2 sections. Those that have sent in a deposit are placed at the bottom of section A while those who have not are placed at the bottom of section B.

As we have dogs or puppies, we start at the top of section A and work down offering the dog to suitable buyers for that dog. If we reach the bottom, and nobody has taken the dog, we move to section B and work down, offering the dog to suitable buyers. If no one still takes him or her, we offer the dog on our website. 

To answer your first question, we don’t dive too much into details. But we want to know that you have a history of taking care of your pets. If your pets see the vet once a year for vaccines and heartworm tests, and never need to see the vet between, great! If you are the person who gives vaccines yourself, and your pets only see the vet for rabies, great. If you take your dog in to get teeth cleaned every 6 months, great. Whatever works for you and your pets. We just want to see that you have some sort of relationship with your vet and that your pets see the vet when needed. 

If your vet tells me they see your dogs once a year and they are matted, half-starved, and covered in hot spots, that’s a problem for us, and would likely bar you from owning one of our dogs. If your vet tells us that you have had 7 animals brought in hit by cars in the past year, that will get your questionnaire denied. If your vet says that you have 200 cats that always have URIs, and 100 dogs that live outside in a shed and never get the care they need, that is an automatic bar.

If your vet says they saw your last dog when you got him as a puppy, and saw him once every three years for rabies, until the end of his life and he was in weekly for cancer treatments or heart failure and he finally had to be PTS, that’s not a red flag to us. We understand very well that not all pets have to see the vet regularly, and that many pet owners give their combo vaccines and treat minor issues on their own without going to the vet.

And the same with personal references. If your neighbors or your best friend tells us that your dog is chained outside barking 24/7, that’s a problem. With that said, we understand that some people are anal about dogs, and if your dog barks once a day, they call animal control. We look at the big picture, not just bits and pieces.

As for the second question, in some states, vet records are protected, and you would have to sign a release with your vet to allow them to talk to us. But the records release will allow them to tell us the basics. 

This honestly depends on what dog you are getting. Of course, there will be different conditions for non-breeding dogs vs. breeding dogs, and for puppies vs. adults. You can view our contract, but this is just a guideline, and each contract may deviate slightly depending on each buyer. 

We do try not to be very invasive and overbearing with our contracts and our terms and conditions. We have much better things to do than to micromanage every dog buyer and how they raise their dogs. The fact is that once you take your dog home, that is your dog, and it is no longer ours. If we can’t trust you to use common sense and do what’s right by your dog, then we simply don’t need to sell you one. 

The average dog buyer does not fully understand how complicated dog breeding is. It is not like ordering a pizza. You never know what you are going to have until the litter hits the ground. We have seen time and time again, that a breeder has 7 deposits for females and gets a litter of all males. Or the breeder has 4 deposits for black and whites, and 2 for red and whites, and gets a litter of sable and whites. Or breeders take a deposit for a particular puppy shortly after birth, only to find out at 8 weeks, that this puppy will not fit into the buyer’s home and family life because of personality or temperament or lack of show/breeding quality.

Because of this, our policy on deposits is different than most breeders. After we review your questionnaire, and inform you that you are going to be put on a waiting list, we give you the choice to visit us and pay a deposit at this time or not. If you choose to pay a deposit, you must print out and fill out the deposit contract and get it notarized before the visit. Our deposits are $1,000 and NONREFUNDABLE unless we are the ones that back out of the sale. We put you on the bottom of the first section of our waitlist. If you choose not to put down a deposit, that is fine, but your wait may be longer because you are put at the bottom of section two of our waitlist. 

However, regardless of whether or not you pay a deposit, we will not promise that your deposit will go to a particular litter or dog, you are simply put on our waiting list as having “paid a deposit”. We try to take your preferences into account, but we cannot guarantee that your deposit will get you a particular dog.

We will not, under any circumstances take any payments, deposits, or any sort of money before you visit our kennel and we meet in person. This is for several reasons, protecting us as well as you.

Now is simply a waiting game. As we get dogs available, we go down section one offering these dogs to suitable buyers. If there are no suitable buyers, or no one is interested, we move to section two. If no one in section two is a suitable buyer or no one is interested, we list the dog as available on our website. 

If you are a suitable buyer, but do not like or want that particular dog, do not fear, because you retain your place on the waiting list. If you do like the dog, your name is taken off the list and everyone else is moved up.

When we offer you a dog, we will send pictures and videos of the dog, and let you decide if you like him. We give you 72 hours to decide. If you do not respond in that time, we assume you do not want that dog and move down, offering him to other families. If you do like him, you must make arrangements for your whole family to visit our kennel in the next 10 days to meet your dog in person, pay the balance due, sign the contract, and sign the AKC, and CKC ownership transfers. 

If you choose to pick up your dog, you will need to come back to our kennel the Monday after your puppy reaches 10 weeks of age, to pick him up. 

If we, or someone else is delivering the dog, or if we are shipping the dog, you must make arrangements to be delivered on the Monday or Wednesday after 10 weeks of age. Couriers and ground shippers can only pick up dogs on Mondays and we only deliver and fly dogs on Wednesdays.

If your dog turns 10 weeks old within a week before or after a major holiday, or between November 15 and January 15, we will board the dog free of charge until the following Monday/Wednesday, as we do not allow our dogs to leave during holidays.

Totally. You have to understand that we are not the type of breeder who says “Give us your money and pick a puppy”. We match puppies to the buyers based on several factors, to determine compatibility with each family. Because of this, we put many, many hours into selecting the perfect dog for each family. If you have not sent in your deposit and change your mind after we have done so much work trying to locate your perfect puppy, we have wasted that much more time that we could have been searching for another family’s puppy. Those who send in their deposits get priority because they have shown more commitment to sticking it out.

This is a common question. The reason for this is that we want to ensure that your entire family likes the new dog, so we require one visit before you pick your dog up, so you can see him and meet him and his parents if applicable, in person. That way we can finalize the contract and sign it in person as well. This also exempts us from the USDA APHIS headache. We never allow a sale of any dog without a visit before the finalization. 

Yes. However, we do not ship overseas or deal with paperwork, customs, or any other paperwork. If you live outside of the United States, you are required to come to our kennel in person to pick up your dog and take your dog to your country. The health certificate, export pedigree, and airline-approved crate are included in the purchase price.

You are responsible for airline fees, embargoes, and other fees and fines when you arrive home, as well as the importation paperwork, registration in your country, any quarantines, and other legalities when you arrive home.

If your dog cannot enter your country until a certain age, we will board your dog for you until the minimum age for entry into your country. We charge $10 per day plus costs for any vaccines or parasite prevention due during board period.

Simply put, time. If we are letting an entire litter go at one time, it is much easier on us to let them all leave on a set day, versus 1 on Monday, 3 on Tuesday, 1 on Thursday, 2 on Friday, and 4 the following Sunday. By having 1 day a week that we go to the airport, and 1 day a week for pickups, it makes it easier on everyone. The other days of the week we can devote ourselves to caring for our dogs. 

We do, on occasion, have exceptions. If we are heading to a show or performance event, for instance, and have room for another dog, and you are on our way, we may drop your dog off at your home, or if the only day at all you can get your dog is on a Sunday, we can work around this.

If you are offered a dog that you like, but cannot take him on the pickup/delivery day, let us know and we will board the dog for 7 days at no cost. After 7 days, we will charge you $10 a day plus vaccine or parasite control expenses for boarding. However, if the inability to take the dog at the moment results from a military deployment, natural disaster, or state of emergency (national, state, or in your area or ours), we will board the dog free of charge as long as necessary.

We prefer that our buyers come to our kennel to pick their dogs up personally, but we also understand that for many buyers, a trip to our kennel is not feasible on certain days, so yes we do ship our dogs if needed. If your dog is being shipped, we do require your whole family, including all children, to make one trip to our kennel after you have selected your dog, so you can meet him in person, and we can meet you in person and finalize the contract. We give you 10 days after your approval to make the trip to our kennel. 

We never allow people to purchase dogs as gifts for another individual. On rare occasions, the timing is right for the recipient and the puppy is the right one for the recipient, but far too often, the timing or puppy is wrong for the recipient, and everyone is unhappy. The recipient feels obligated to keep a dog that doesn’t fit into his or her life because it was a gift, but the dog and the recipient end up unhappy.

We never allow any dog to leave our kennel between November 15 and January 15, or a week before or after any other major holiday.

This is because dogs have a stress-free life here. Taking them from that life to a hectic home is hard enough on the dog as it is. Taking them into a hectic home around holidays is a pure nightmare. Between parties, celebrations, guests, and everything else, it’s not fair to any dog, but especially a puppy, to suddenly be thrown into that kind of life, and often forgotten or overlooked because everyone is so busy. 

We are aware that many breeders only sell dogs with limited registration and non-breeding agreements, and though, in theory, this can be a good thing, it can also lead to the downfall of the breed when overused. Why? Simply because there are too many bad breeders producing garbage dogs. Yes, anyone can understand that ethical breeders want to preserve the gene pool and the integrity of the breed in general and their bloodlines in particular and don’t want years of work going down the drain when sub-par pups are produced, weakening the gene pool. We get that. But when all ethical breeders sell every single puppy with limited registration, you find a much more serious problem with unethical backyard breeders seizing an opportunity. 

This type of breeder cannot compete with an ethical breeder in quality, health, customer service, knowledge, or ethics, but is willing to offer what the ethical breeders don’t. And that is full registration and breeding rights. Novice dog buyers do not fully understand quality, or how to select breeding dogs and choose ideal mates. They buy these poor-quality, genetic-nightmare, backyard-bred, dumpster fire puppies with no breeder guidance at all, and begin breeding to anything as soon as it’s physically possible for the dog to be bred, repeating a vicious cycle. Now you have even more poor-quality dogs being born, weakening the gene pool further. 

We feel that an ethical breeder selling full registration but with strict breeding guidelines or insisting on a co-ownership to assist the novice in learning how to select breeding pairs and determine quality is the better choice. That is where we stand. If someone wants to purchase a full-registration dog with breeding rights, we have a contract stating that the dog will not be allowed to be bred until titled and cleared of health problems. We also offer lifetime support for every aspect, including deciding what dog is the best mate for another one. We also offer a type of co-ownership for novices if they choose to use this. 

Limited registration/non-breeding agreement is a tool offered by the AKC/CKC to ensure that faulty dogs are not bred. When a dog is deemed not breeding quality, the breeder can sell it with a limited registration/non-breeding agreement. When this happens, the dog is still allowed to participate in working and performance events and sports, but is not allowed to be shown, and if the dog is bred, his offspring cannot be registered. 

The breeder can lift the limited registration/non-breeding agreement in the future if the dog does turn out to be breeding quality. In this case, the breeder has to fill out and sign a form and the owner will receive a new registration certificate showing full registration. 

That depends on the individual dog. We do have starting prices that we begin with, and the price can go up or down. Starting prices are for untitled dogs. Of course, an older dog is going to cost more than a puppy, and one that is trained and titled will cost even more because of the work put into him. Dogs may also be priced lower than the starting prices for various reasons. Also, bloodlines and parent’s titles can play a part in the pricing, as can special purchase options. Males and females are the same price. All colors are the same price.

-12 w Non-Breeding $2,000

-12 w Breeding         $2,500

12 w - 6 m Non-Breeding $2,500

12 w - 6 m Breeding $3,000

6 m - 12 m Non-Breeding $3,000

6 m - 12 m Breeding $3,500

12 m - 24 m Non-Breeding $3,500

12 m - 24 m Breeding $4,000

+24 m Non-Breeding $4,000

+24 m Breeding         $4,500

We offer multiple ways to pay for your dog/lease fees/stud service fees. We accept credit cards, cash in person, direct deposits to our bank account, Walmart to Walmart, Western Union, Zelle, Cash App, Google Pay, Samsung Pay, and Facebook payments as instant payment options. (recommended if you are paying a deposit).

We also allow other forms of payments, but when we receive these payments, we hold the payment until cleared. These forms include personal and business checks, cashier’s checks, and money orders. When we take one of these payment plans it sometimes can take up to 2 weeks for the payment to clear. This is why we do not recommend these payment methods as a deposit. We do require that if any of these payment methods are submitted they are submitted with a clear, legible photocopy of your driver's license, and you understand that we will pursue legal action if payment is returned because of “stop payment” action or NSF, or counterfeit status.

We do not under any circumstances accept PayPal payments. We regret to have to do this, but there are too many problems with PayPal. A common scam is for an unscrupulous buyer to use PayPal to purchase a dog, then lie to PayPal stating they never got the dog or the dog was not what they expected. When this happens, PayPal does not even investigate or get the breeder’s side of the story. They simply automatically refund the payment to the buyer, taking it from the breeder’s account, since they do not support live animal sales. Even if you send it friends and family or use it as a deposit, then PayPal will refund the money and not require the buyer to return the dog. 

You do have to understand, however, that some payment methods may incur fees for use. Walmart to Walmart and Western Union are the main ones. These fees are IN ADDITION to your purchase price. We do not incur fees from Cash App, however.

The average person does not fully understand the time, effort, and money that goes into breeding dogs properly. A good breeder does not sell his pups for a few hundred dollars, because a good breeder does not simply throw 2 dogs together and let them raise their puppies.

I will break down what it takes to raise a litter properly. First of all, we bought a female. We paid around our puppy prices for her, maybe more. If she was born overseas, add shipping and importation costs. Now add the cost of raising her for 2 years. Feeding her, providing vet care, parasite prevention and control. This adds up. Just this routine maintenance for the first 2 years of her life is well over $5,000. Add more cost for any emergencies that crop up.

Add required health testing (hip, elbows, patellas, eyes, cardiac, genetic screening, DNA profiles) Add another $1,500 or so. Training, showing, titling, working her, add another several thousand dollars. Now she is 2-3 years old. All this time, money, and effort into her. Now a decision has to be made. Is she even what we are looking for in a breeding dog? If not, all that we have put into her is gone and we have to start over. 

OK, so she is what we want in our program. Now we are looking at weeks and probably months studying pedigrees, conformation, temperaments, wins, and working abilities to decide who the perfect stud dog to use. Is it one of ours? If not, then we have a stud service fee and an AI to pay for. If he is one of ours, then we have to figure in his care and upkeep, titling, and testing.

Pre-breeding health testing (cervical cultures, lost pregnancy profile, brucellosis testing, progesterone testing) adds up.

Shortly after breeding, her appetite is going to increase. Add the cost of extra food and supplements. Whelping supplies are not cheap or free. During whelping time, anxiety is high and sleep is non-existent. At birth, mom and babies get vet check up. Since this is a house call, the vet can charge upwards of $500 for this visit. And this does not cover the $3,000 or more for a c-section in case something goes wrong.

Mom is still eating up to 3 times her normal feed. This is expensive. If mom can’t or won’t feed her pups, tube feeding may be necessary. This is more money. At 2-3 weeks we begin introducing foods. At 5-6 weeks, pups are fully weaned and we are exclusively feeding them for the next several weeks. Puppies get intestinal worm, coccidia, and giardia prevention beginning at 2 weeks of age. At 6 weeks of age, the puppies see the vet to check on the pups to date, looking for stuff like umbilical hernias, heart murmurs, etc. At 8 weeks, pups are started on heartworm prevention, and at 10 weeks, they are started on flea prevention. At 8 weeks puppies get vaccinated. At 1o weeks of age, the puppies see the vet again for health certificates.

Puppies are microchipped and individually registered as well as AKC DNA profiled, and OFA DNA profiled ($200 or more). We also do an Embark Breeder’s Kit test on each puppy. ($199 per puppy). This DNA test looks for genetic health problems, and various traits, including color genotype, coat length, and type, and tells the rate of genetic diversity in each pup. Your puppy goes home with a care package valued at upwards of $500. 

Add the hundreds of hours socializing the puppies, handling them, and introducing them to other people and animals. Not to mention all the hours matching each puppy to his future home. 

Your limited registration puppy takes as much time, effort, and money as his full registration littermates.

In some breeds and circles, it is common for the price to drop as puppies get older. The theory is that the breeder is desperate to place the last couple of pups so they will discount the puppies left. However, in many other cases, it’s the opposite. Breeders keeping pups longer are spending more money and more time on these dogs. They are training them, socializing them, providing vet care, parasite prevention, vaccinating, and feeding these pups. Therefore it is not unreasonable to charge more for the older pup.

Your purchase price includes much more than just your dog. It also includes delivery to the airport, if being shipped, or delivery to your door if you live within a 50-mile radius of our kennel. You will receive a paperwork packet containing homemade pedigree, AKC and CKC certified pedigree, potentially other certified pedigrees as well,  health certificate, all of his original vet records, original title certificates he has earned to date, his Embark file, any OFA certificates earned to date (PLEASE NOTE: DOGS UNDER 2 YEARS OF AGE WILL NOT HAVE HIPS, ELBOWS, OR PATELLAS DONE, AND DOGS UNDER 15 MONTHS OF AGE WILL NOT HAVE EYE OR CARDIAC TESTING DONE.), copy of the contract, and detailed instructions regarding first days, health care, etc. The registration fees, transfer of ownership, AKC and CKC certified pedigrees, and AKC Reunite registration are all included in the purchase price. Your AKC and CKC registration papers do not come with the dog, they will be mailed to you after the registry processes the transfer of ownership. Any applicable FCI papers are sent with your dog. UKC papers will only be sent with your dog if your dog is full registration. Limited registration dogs do not get UKC papers until your dog is spayed/neutered, or limited registration is lifted.

He will also go home with a care package. This includes a crate and reusable puppy pad, a properly sized leather collar and lead, dishes, an AKC reunite collar tag, a three-day supply of your choice of the various foods and supplements he is on, a small package of treats, and some favored toys. You also get 6 months' worth of Interceptor Plus and Nexguard. During this time he will grow and may change doses before the 6 months is up, so monthly, you need to call us a few days before he is due and tell us what he weighs and we will send you that month's supply. For a dog already on the maximum doses, we simply send you a 6 month supply. If he reaches the maximum dose weight in the 6 months, we will send the rest at once. You will also get books and videos pertaining to your dog.

We used to pay for your puppy to see your veterinarian at acquisition, but we stopped this practice because it was becoming problematic. We had a few cases where shortly after buyers got their puppy, they took their puppy to dog parks, and classes and such, before the initial vaccine series was completed, and the puppies got parvo and another infectious disease because they were not fully vaccinated. 

When it was shown that their veterinarian, in addition to ours, gave a clean bill of health at acquisition, we were accused of biasing their veterinarian by paying for the visit. The buyers would allege in court that we paid the bill just so their veterinarian would say that the puppy was healthy when it was not. These allegations were always proven false, but it set us up to stop offering to pay for the initial visit, as we cannot be accused of biasing your vet based on the payment coming from us.

We do, but our co-ownership contract is much more strict than a lot of breeders. We are not the breeder that says, “Keep my name on the dog’s papers and we will split the money from breeding, and I won’t charge you the full price.” 

Our co-ownerships are more for the novice breeder, who wants to learn how to properly breed, but is not educated enough to start solo. When you purchase a dog from us with our co-ownership terms, there is a set contract, stating how she will be titled, what the minimum titles required, and how often and at what ages she will be bred. It also states what happens when a buyout is asked for, and states how the litters will be split. Also, the financial responsibilities for each party are spelled out in the contract.

Our co-ownerships are not for someone who simply wants to pay less for a dog and think about breeding showing, and working later on. This is for the person who is serious about wanting to show, work, compete, and breed. 

We do not require a co-ownership if you are purchasing a full registration dog. We offer it on all full registration dogs, but we do sell full registration without co-ownerships.

We do not ever sell males with co-ownerships. We used to, but it became too problematic because, in a co-owner situation, it is much easier to breed a male without both parties' consent and knowledge. 

We had several instances where buyers would advertise a co-owned stud, not consult with us before breeding, to ensure that we approve of the bitch, then when it came time to sign the litter registration, the bitch owner would get mad at us because we refused to sign the application. After all, we did not know the breeding and the bitch was sub-par or simply not a good match with the stud. Or we would have problems with buyers overbooking the stud services, collecting deposits or entire stud service fees, then when the stud was unavailable, bitch owners would come after us for their money back, and again, we did not know about the agreement. We also, more than once, have heard of issues with a stud being allowed to live breed untested bitches, contracting brucellosis, then passing it to the co-owners' bitches when we bred back to him.

It is simply much harder to ensure that an unscrupulous buyer will not stud a dog out to an unapproved bitch without our consent than it is to ensure they won’t breed a bitch without our consent.

Because of this, our new approach is if we have a stud for sale, and we wish to retain him in our breeding program, we simply collect and freeze before sale, retaining ownership of the frozen semen. This way we can still use him in our program but do not have the hassles that we would otherwise have had.

Not at all. The legal owner of the stud dog at the time the semen was collected, is the legal owner of the semen. When we sell a stud dog that we have collected and frozen, we are not under any obligation to transfer ownership of the semen along with him. 

We are under no obligation at all, to disclose how much, if any, semen we have stored from him. We also have the right to list him on our website as a stud dog and use the semen as we see fit, for our bitches or outside bitches. We do not need you to sign litter registration applications, even if litters are born after the sale. 

On that note, you are not under any obligation to allow us to collect and freeze semen from him after the sale. If we run out of semen, or something happens, and a repeat breeding is necessary, you do not have any obligation to allow us to use him again.

However, once a year, we will let you know how many males and females through the year were produced using retained semen, what coat colors, and what, if any health problems have been seen in any puppies. If you choose not to include this information in your AKC/CKC recordkeeping, you are not required to, as you are not the stud dog owner in this case. However, this information can be useful later down the road, if you know that he throws a lot more of a certain coat color or produces a lot of bad hips.

We will not, under any circumstances, tell you who purchased the puppies, where they are, how much they were sold for, or other information that is not relevant to the future breeding of the stud dog. You will not have any right to any claims to the puppies produced, no stud service fees, or stud service puppies from these litters.

We highly suggest that you think long and hard about this. If something happens between the parties, where the dog is being fought over, this can involve costly court battles. If the person you are co-owning a dog with ends up losing privileges with the registries, you cannot sell, breed, or transfer the dog without a long hard battle with the registries. 

However, if you do decide that you want a co-ownership with someone, because our warranties are non-transferable, you and the co-owner must both sign buyer contracts. If the co-ownership is agreed upon after purchase (you get married a year after you buy the dog, and want to add your spouse to the registration papers, etc.) you must contact us and we will do another contract with the co-owner. Either way, we highly suggest writing up a contract or written agreement between you and the co-owner (or co-owners) outlining each person’s responsibilities and giving us a copy just in case. If it will assist you, you are more than welcome to use our contract as a base, and then modifying it to your unique needs.

We highly suggest when doing a co-ownership between you and the co-owner, that you include clauses in the contract, dictating what happens if the co-ownership must be terminated (falling out, divorce, etc.). In this case, if we are provided a copy of the contract you have with the co-owner, we will do our best to honor it, provided it does not affect the contract between us and you. 

For example, if you buy a dog from us, then get married and want to put your husband’s name on the registration papers, you write out a contract between the two of you, stating that you get the dog if you get a divorce. Send that to us, and say, a few years down the road, things are not going well and you are getting a divorce. You notify us, and we will terminate the contract with your ex-husband, and will not have anything to do with him regarding you and the dog. He will get no information from us and we will not work as messengers to pass messages to you.

We cannot get involved in this debate between co-owners, and will not take sides, or testify in court unless the contract between us and you is affected. 

For example, if you and your wife co-own a dog, and she wants to breed the dog at 14 months old, with no titles or show points, and takes it to court, we will testify on your behalf, as this case affects the contract between you two and us. 

You must also remember, that no matter what your co-ownership contract/agreement states, our contract overrides this agreement if there is conflict.

In our experience, termination of the co-ownership is the worst of the co-ownership problems, followed by disagreements over financial aspects.

Remember, however, that there will be additional registry charges for co-ownerships. This fee is your responsibility. 

Yes. We believe strongly that a dog that is properly trained is a joy to have in your family. We also like to see our hard work pay off when our puppies and dogs are proving that they have what it takes to work, perform, and show. This shows us that we are doing things right. Incentives usually encourage new owners to train and title their dogs. 

We offer a one-time $25 rebate for completion of any AKC, CKC, or UKC club-sponsored or run obedience class. If your dog goes through a formal obedience class and receives a basic household title, you need to send us a copy of the certificate, showing your dog’s registered name, and your name, and the instructor’s name, and we will send you a rebate. (PetSmart classes and others like these do not qualify for rebates as these are not formal obedience classes)

We also offer titling rebates. Unlike the training class rebate, titling rebates are unlimited, meaning you can get as many as your dog earns. Note: titling rebates are only valid when the titles are earned through a LEGITIMATE registry or working dog organization. 

Note: titles earned through pet registries such as DRA, ConKC, APRA, NKC, and others, are not legitimate titles and will not be honored with a rebate. Working certifications must be awarded by legitimate recognized agencies. Emotional support dog or online service dog registrations do not qualify for rebates

Conformation/Breed Survey titles (any conformation title, breed survey, or show rating given by any legitimate registration body or breed club): 

$50 rebate per JRCH, or CH in any country or for any CH level obtained through IABCA or FCI show rating. 

$100 rebate per GRCH in any country, International CH, World or Continental Winner.

Working/Performance/Temperament (any non-conformation or breed survey title/certification given by any legitimate registration body, working dog organization, or national breed club): 

$25 rebate per standard title, certification, or temperament test. This includes AKC/CKC/UKC/FCI performance titles, working certifications, legitimate service dog certifications, national breed club awarded titles/certifications, TDI or other therapy dog certifications, basic household title (CGC, CGCA, CGCU, SPOT-ON GCN), or TC. 

$50 rebate per Working CH, Dual CH, or Triple CH in any country.

$75 rebate per International Working CH titles or FCI Working CH titles. 

NOTE: If the first basic household title was awarded through a rebate class or free class, the rebate will not apply for the first. 

We also give rebates for health testing:

$50 rebate per test for joint, eye, cardiac, thyroid, or other health problems.

$75 rebate for CHIC number. 

As with the titling rebates, these are unlimited.

To get these rebates, you must send us a copy of the official certificate. This must include your dog’s registered name and number, and feature the seal of the registry or club. These rebates do not count for titles, certifications, or health testing achieved before purchase. The rebates are mailed to you via cashier’s check.

Repeat health testing rebates are often misunderstood for several reasons. Many breeders limit rebates to one rebate per health test for the life of the dog. Many health tests ARE one-and-done tests (genetic, hip, elbow, etc.) But other tests are only valid for a certain time frame (cardiac, eye, etc.) You get a rebate every time your dog passes a health test, regardless if it’s been passed before.

This also applies to hips and elbows. Many dog owners, especially working and breeding dogs, like to re-do hips and elbows several years into their working lives to ensure that the dog is still physically sound enough to perform. As breeders, we encourage this, as it also helps us to determine the longevity of our puppies and their health into their senior years. If our dogs are routinely passing hip and elbow certifications, at 2 years, but failing at 6 years, we know we are doing something wrong.

Repeated genetic tests DO NOT qualify for rebates. These results will not change.

We also offer referral rebates. If you refer someone to us, and they purchase a dog, you receive a 10% rebate on the purchase price of their dog.

We do offer discounts. We give all current, former, or retired law enforcement, first responders, military, and government employees, a 10% discount on the purchase of a non-working limited registration dog who has already been neutered. If the dog has not been neutered yet, you will pay full price, and we will reimburse 10% of the purchase price after proof of neuter.

We do not discount service dog prospects. Too often people come to breeders with a sob story about needing a service dog and needing a discount and then self-training said service dog. The problem with this is there is no way to police if the buyer really needs a service dog and if they are training their dog properly. 

We are disturbed by the trend of breeders (generally doodle breeders) promoting every one of their puppies as service dog candidates. The truth is, that the vast majority of dogs do not have what it takes, mentally or physically, to be service dogs. 

We do not promote our puppies as self-trained service dog candidates, because the vast majority of people do not know how to properly train a service dog, and the dog washes out for various reasons.

We never make guarantees that a puppy we sell, even if it seems to meet the criteria, will make a self-trained service dog. Therefore, we do not sell our puppies to the public as service dogs.

If legitimate organizations contact us to purchase puppies for service work, we will sell to them, but we still do not give discounts.